The most enchanting part of the green and pleasant land of The Cotswolds is the peaceful, bucolic Painswick Valley, a few miles north of the Gloucestershire town of Stroud.
This is an idyllic place to immerse yourself in the countryside that was immortalised by the poet and author Laurie Lee in the chronicle of his childhood, “Cider with Rosie”. The late Laurie Lee now lies in the churchyard in the village of Slad, but his presence is very much still felt in and around the rural hamlets and valleys that he so loved. He was a wise man in many respects because he was known to enjoy a drink and a home-cooked dinner at the Edgemoor Inn with its magnificent views across the Painswick Valley.

Today visitors drop in to the very same Inn to fuel up on local brews and delicious meals before exploring the historic wool town of Painswick, known as “Queen of the Cotswolds” because of its regal hilltop situation. From the Painswick Beacon you can see right across the Severn Valley to the Welsh mountains.

Painswick is a delight for walkers, sitting as it does halfway along the Cotswolds Way National Trail, and surrounded by some fabulous walking country. If you prefer wheels, there are plenty of cycle routes to follow. It also boasts an 18-hole golf course, and the country’s oldest bowling green. For the less sporty there is plenty of interest to discover in the town itself, including some great galleries and shops in its narrow streets.

If you want a touch of urban life during your visit to The Cotswolds, call in to the market town of Stroud, tucked below the western escarpment of the Cotswold Hills, where Five “Golden” Valleys – including the Painswick Valley – meet.
Although it’s a sizable town, Stroud has a country character, having famously been described by the London Evening Standard as “Notting Hill with wellies”. Wellies might not be the best footwear to choose for exploring the town, however, because its situation means it has very steep streets to navigate. It’s well worth exploring on foot though, to soak up the creative atmosphere of this hub of arts and crafts.

There are dozens of fascinating, often quirky, little shops and cafes, and if you’re there on a Saturday you’ll be able to experience the town’s wonderful award-winning Farmers’ Market, rated as one of the top markets in the country. The town is proud of its “green” status, and you’ll find a plethora of organic food on offer.

Historically Stroud boasts an industrial heritage, based on a number of textile mills strung along the valleys. You can still visit some of the old mills, and two of the mills continue to make cloth – felt that is used for Wimbledon tennis balls. In days of yore the mills churned out the bright “Stroudwater Scarlet” used for military uniforms.